3 - China for me
Beijing
Suhale and Jai came to drop me at the airport. “Dadi, r u going to the Olympics?”
“Yes but they are over. But I will get a hat for you. And a T-shirt, and a bat and a Ball”. He said,” OK” Adit had woken up at home and reminded me on the Cell, “Dadi you have to get me Gold, Silver and a bronze medal”.
I laughed and said “for that you will have to go yourself and win”.
“Fake ones” he said and I laughed.
Remembered Suhale many years ago had taken part in the ‘Olympics of the mind’ in Elementary School and won some project in the US.
As I write this I get a call from the Maurya Sheraton, “Hi” he says,” I just called to say that I just received an award from Jyotir Scindia ‘The best young emerging company in the BPO sector in India-2008’ ‘’. “Wow son, well done!”
As we landed at Beijing, there stood a huge globe resting on 2 dragons announcing “One world one dream, the Paralympics”.
In 1948, Sir Ludwig Guttmann organized a sports competition involving World War II veterans with a spinal cord injury in Stoke Mandeville, England. Four years later, competitors from the Netherlands joined the games and an international movement was born. Olympic style games for athletes with a disability were organized for the first time in Rome in 1960, now called Paralympics. In Toronto in 1976, other disability groups were added and the idea of merging them for international sport competitions was born.
The number of athletes participating in Summer Paralympics has increased from 400 from 23 countries in Rome in 1960, to 3806 from 136 countries in Athens in 2004, to 7,000 from 148 countries now at Beijing in 2008.
The whole route about 60 kms of the highway to the Hotel was lined with Banners of the Olympics. In fact the whole city was. All the Parks had exquisite floral formations of Sports sculpture in Green and all colors of the rainbow. Huge LCD screens, on big buildings including ‘the great wall’ were screening events 24hrs. of the day.
"Sacred flame, you are burning in my heart; are you hearing me? I'm singing for you." said Wang Yimei, a ten-year-old with a hearing impairment, speaking with her hands in the most moving language in the world. The burning flame understood her message as did all those who watched.
It was indeed a treat to watch the visually challenged, the amputees, and those on wheel-chairs on a basketball field and other events. The Paralympics integrated dignity, value and humanitarianism and the inspiration and fortitude of those with disabilities.
Beijing From Now to then :
Home to over 2000 years of imperial rule, Beijing was built to awe the populace with the power of the emperor. The central axis of the city is 7.5 km long, cutting through Beijing in a line from north to south. Almost all the streets are constructed according to this axis maintaining the harmony of the design.
The Great Wall
As you fly into the city, the Great Wall rises up beneath, slithering its way like a dragon along the tops of the surrounding mountains past the Gobi desert to the Yellow sea over 6000 kms. Long.
Symbolizing China's ancient civilization it is the7th new wonder
Construction of the Wall first began during the period of the Warring States about 300 BC. Formerly it was built at strategic points by different kingdoms to protect their territories. After the first Emperor of the Qin Dynasty unified China, he had the walls linked up.
About 1 million people, one-fifth of China's population at the time, worked in scorching summers and harsh winters, the wall a symbol of pride and invincibility.
While Sudhir wrote to us his adventure on the Badaling section, we went to Mutianyu. There is a ski lift that took us the lazy seniors to the great watch towers and scenery around. We took the ‘Tobaggan’ down which is a long twisty slide, scary to begin with, but wild and fun once you get the hang of it.
As usual there are little shops and hawkers at the entrance. We had a delicious snack looking like a Rummali roti, on top of it they break an egg and spread it with a spicy sauce and crunchy stuff, a bit like a pappadam and then they fold it...hot and yummy.
Tiananmen Square
Chairman Mao shines bright on the Gateway and presides over Tiananmen Square, the largest urban square in the world. This vast space, measuring 40 hectares, has a historical significance to rival its size.
The May 4th demonstrations in 1919 against the Treaty of Versailles took place here. So too did anti Japanese protests in 1935. Mao inspected his troops here during the Cultural Revolution and in 1976, one million people gathered in the square to pay tribute to the Chairman. Tiananmen Square is largely Mao's concoction Today, visitors remember the square mostly for the images of the May,1989 student demonstrations which were relayed throughout the world.
This is not only the physical centre of China, but also the centre of power and politics. The Chinese flag is raised at sunrise and lowered at sunset when PLA soldiers march up and down, drilled to perform at 108 paces/ minute! The number of soldiers guarding the corners almost imparts a sense of intimidation. In the centre is Chairman Mao's tomb, his body lying embalmed for paying respect to him and other heroes of the Revolution.
Forbidden City
This is the Palace Museum. It is the largest and most well preserved imperial residence in China today. Under Ming Emperor Yongle, construction began in 1406 and took 14 years to build. The first ruler who lived here was Ming Emperor Zhudi. For five centuries thereafter, it continued to be the residence of 23 successive emperors until 1911 when Qing Emperor Puyi was forced to abdicate the throne.
The ancient astronomers divided the constellations into groups and centred them on the North Star. This was the Constellation of Heavenly God.
The palace has morality written all over its wings; hall of mental cultivation, palace of tranquil longevity, of gathering elegance, of celestial and terrestrial union, of manifest harmony and of modest ladies.The Kings chamber had 9 beds for his eunuchs, concubines & the empress.
I remembered Forbidden City from the Oscar winning movie ’last emperor’. In it Pu Yi was tutored by Peter O’toole. Although he was driven out and became a citizen in the end, Bernando Bertolucci immortalised Pu Yi,as also the Forbidden city.
The Summer Palace
is beautiful with the Gardens and the Lake of Clear Ripples. It was constructed in 1750 by the emperor of the Qing Dynasty in honour of his mother's birthday. After 15 years and one seventh of the nation's annual revenue spent, it served as a testimony to China's scientific and technological achievements and renamed ‘the Garden of Nurtured Harmony’ which it truly is.
Temple of Heaven
Magnificent and colourful is a delightful place. It was completed in 1420 and was originally a platform for the Son of Heaven (the emperor) to perform sacrifices and solemn rites. The Temple buildings and the parklands reflect ancient Chinese religious beliefs that imagine heaven as round and earth as square. The temples themselves are round and the bases square. Among the gods worshiped were the god of earth, the god of water, the god of agriculture, the god of religion and the god of civilians. Offering sacrifices was a serious task, as was atoning the sins of the people
The parklands and the Temple are an exquisite place to spend some time and dance with the Tai-chi experts, kite flyers and violin and accordion players.
One of the unique features of Beijing which has been China's capital for five dynasties is the Hutongs, which means small lanes in the Mongolian language. In these lanes, quadrangles, each consisting of a courtyard surrounded by one-storeyed tile-roofed houses exist, which are the living quarters of ordinary people even today.
A round in these lanes by a Rickshaw is part of the Day trip we took. It is like any old city in any small town in India, perhaps my own grandmother’s old house in Ludhiana where I was born.
There are still no modern toilets. There is close community living, groups of senior men and women sitting around playing cards, chess, checkers or plain gossiping.
I talked at length to a lady in a family we visited. She of course also knew no English. She told us she was 63, an architect, love-married to an architect, mother of a son who lived in Shanghai, still working, living in another area but was visiting her 92 year old father who lived here with her widower 67 yr old brother who was making mo-mos in an earthen oven / tandoor. “Do u believe in Feng-shui?” She nodded her head and said, “Not really, most educated people have left these things behind”.
Met the 92 year dad outside cleaning the street with a standing Broom. He nodded and smiled and said, he likes to clean as it cleans the environment to throw away those cigarettes Stubbs that young people smoke. Also, “it keeps my body moving which is good.”
Once back to the Hotel in the evening, I had to put my feet up but there was no way I wanted to miss Sun Li Tan or Bar Street. It was a melting pot for the locals and those around the Globe, both young and not so young. There were jazz players, Portrait painters, lots of Budweiser and Heineken, outdoor Café and eating joints both for casual and elite. Lots of Music indoors and outside by the side of the Lake with its shimmering lights and swaying crowds which was hard to resist even for my tired feet.
Time had come to return ------ I am half awake-----reminiscing—between flights---
I've witnessed at first-hand what may well be the fastest, most far-reaching national metamorphosis in human history. There is no way one could encapsulate the myriad forces that have driven China's blindingly fast rise.
In 1960 a prime minister who promised that income would double in ten year turned out to have underestimated: the target was passed in 1967. In 1985 she became the world’s largest creditor nation.
Deng pushed industrial growth at any cost, short of giving up one-party rule. Investors kept pouring in from Hong Kong and Taiwan, unfazed by questions of human rights, to build factories and take advantage of cheap migrant labor.
Now try to imagine such explosive transformations happening all across a country of 1.3 billion people. The China that appeared on the world's TV screens today is centuries old, but it's been made anew in just the last three decades. Thirty years ago China was an immense ruin of enforced ignorance and abject poverty, the psychic rubble that remained after Mao's misconceived attempts to reshape Chinese society.
Industrialization has leaped to unlikely places with speed of a computer virus and the shifts of initiative in
the next millennium may be into the hand of worldwide elites or of a few masters of cybernetics,
moulding world culture from a specific location through millions of modems.
The Sun has come up again on this side of the world and the culture of the present and the
Future emanates from the depths of Asia and – increasingly and decisively, not from the Atlantic but
from the shores of the Pacific.
Veena Kapoor Sept. 2008
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Saturday, June 19, 2010
China for me-2
China for me-2
Shanghai
I stand in the Balcony on the 23rd floor of my Hotel. On the left and the right are 2 high-rises above me. In the middle I see the Huangpu River. On it the barges are plying up and down gently ruffling the calm waters.
There are cranes in the distance. A lot more is happening there as I watch sipping my Green Tea.
Shanghai is the “Oriental Paris “. As the largest and most prosperous city in the nation, it is the economic, financial, fashion and cultural glitzy center of China.
We are in newest area of the city, Pudong, which just celebrated its 10th anniversary, the area that has changed most dramatically in the city in recent years.
Pudong was just docks and paddy fields until 1990s. Now it has 200 square miles of offices, malls, tallest buildings and the ‘Maglev’. It is the fastest commercially run train of its kind in the world running by magnetic levitation at 270 miles/hour. It took us 7 minutes instead of an hour to get here from the Airport.
The Oriental Pearl TV Tower is a recent construction, which heralds the beginning of the Special Economic Region over the river. It incorporates eleven spheres (or "pearls") and three gigantic columns linking the green grass below to the blue sky above. It has computer controlled lighting displaying more than 1000 varieties.
The International Conference Center was completed last year, just in time for the Fortune 500 conference which attracted literally thousands of investors to the city. Shanghai's Wall Street is also over here and hundreds of commuters make the trip through a long, long tunnel under the river every day to work.
The Jinmao Tower, the tallest building in China and the third tallest in the world, now soars above, higher than the TV Tower. Skyscrapers are shooting up all over the place.
The famous Bund on the western side of the River was the "British Public Park", reminding of Shanghai's days of the past. The symbol of old and new, the Bund is Shanghai's most famous landmark. In the 1930s, the row of buildings was host to the city's financial and commercial centers and the world's greatest banks and trading empires.
Today, it is still home to many of the city's hotels, bars and banks and a lover’s walkway with the city lights twinkling in the River.
The river twists and turns like an almighty Dragon tumbling from Snowbound Mountains of a land called Shangri-La into a tea cup of Shanghais Café.
Shanghai’s futuristic skyline at Sunset, a sophisticated city sets the pace of China’s urbane coast whether enjoying fine wine at night, neon lights or answering global networks with the latest electronic telecom
Yu Garden
My guide Linda, Ying-Ying, her real name took me to the Old City God's Taoist Temple which is enclosed in Yuyuan Gardens which are also popular for shopping.
She showed me boutiques selling local specialties like Silk garments, Jade jewellery, fancy teacups etc. where bargained prices were 30% of those marked. A special MO-MO place was qued up and mo-mos all gone by the time our turn came.(The inner city still has sitting Indian style loos to my discomfort and Linda’s apology).
It was raining heavily the next day but she turned up at dot 10, (Chinese punctuality was remarkable.)
We decided that the Museum was the best choice. It is the centrepiece of People's Square, a harmonious combination of square shapes and circular ones, the Chinese traditional concept which imagines heaven as round and earth as square. The design is also in keeping with Feng Shui principles with perfect symmetry. Inside is the usual Sculpture, mostly Buddhist, Bronze, ceramics, art and calligraphy etc.
AP was busy with his exhibition / trade fair.
It was HUGE at least 10 times the size of Pragati Madaan in Delhi. Fully covered, air conditioned, carpets rolled, eating joints every nook and corner, Machines galore on ground, cranes fixing stuff above, billboards, Colors, people of all types and kinds, an air of ‘emergence’, scant Indians--- lots happening beyond ME----- so in the evening, we were off to------
Nanjing Road
The cabbie dropped us at the square. Neon as far as the eye can see, more than Piccadilly-London, more than Time square-Manhattan, more than imaginable----
A trackless sightseeing tram provided a comfortable tour of the night-transformed pedestrian street.
Today over 600 businesses on Nanjing road offer countless famous brands, and new fashions. KFC, McDonald's, Pizza Hut, and other world-famous food vendors line both sides of the street. Upscale stores include Tiffany, Mont Blanc, and Dunhill. In addition are also, approximately a hundred traditional stores and specialty shops.
Open-air bars, abstract sculptures, and lingering sounds from street musicians are all around. Flashing neon signs illuminate the magnificent buildings and spangle the night skyline.
There is an intangible feel in Shanghai, an urgency, a hope and optimism that hangs in the air all around from the minute you arrive, People are pushing forwards with their feet and in their heads, building a future, a country, moving onwards to some distant unseen goal—
The World Bank says china has lifted 400 million people out of poverty since 1978. China is doing the most extraordinary thing the planet has ever witnessed.
A 5th of humanity is being convulsed every minute, thousands are making millions. ‘Blink’ and you’ll miss plenty in new China. A nation in tumultuous transition
Ordinary Chinese people caught up in an extraordinary moment in time. Millions of people leave their homes in search of jobs in cities. It is the largest migration in History. This army is fuelling the economic boom, putting cheap toys, clothes, flat screen TVs and computers on the shelves of the world’s stores. China has overtaken Britain as the worlds 4th largest economy. It is the workshop of the world. China matters more today than it has ever mattered before. Many take it for granted that it will be the next superpower.
What exactly has it done to the Chinese Psyche and the Chinese soul? The country is turned upside down by development and so is its psychological and moral universe. Our educated guides share in private moments, “this pace is so immense it is rapidly and subtly tearing at the fabric of society even as the new roads and railways knit the country more closely together”.
Veena Kapoor
Sept. 2008
.
Shanghai
I stand in the Balcony on the 23rd floor of my Hotel. On the left and the right are 2 high-rises above me. In the middle I see the Huangpu River. On it the barges are plying up and down gently ruffling the calm waters.
There are cranes in the distance. A lot more is happening there as I watch sipping my Green Tea.
Shanghai is the “Oriental Paris “. As the largest and most prosperous city in the nation, it is the economic, financial, fashion and cultural glitzy center of China.
We are in newest area of the city, Pudong, which just celebrated its 10th anniversary, the area that has changed most dramatically in the city in recent years.
Pudong was just docks and paddy fields until 1990s. Now it has 200 square miles of offices, malls, tallest buildings and the ‘Maglev’. It is the fastest commercially run train of its kind in the world running by magnetic levitation at 270 miles/hour. It took us 7 minutes instead of an hour to get here from the Airport.
The Oriental Pearl TV Tower is a recent construction, which heralds the beginning of the Special Economic Region over the river. It incorporates eleven spheres (or "pearls") and three gigantic columns linking the green grass below to the blue sky above. It has computer controlled lighting displaying more than 1000 varieties.
The International Conference Center was completed last year, just in time for the Fortune 500 conference which attracted literally thousands of investors to the city. Shanghai's Wall Street is also over here and hundreds of commuters make the trip through a long, long tunnel under the river every day to work.
The Jinmao Tower, the tallest building in China and the third tallest in the world, now soars above, higher than the TV Tower. Skyscrapers are shooting up all over the place.
The famous Bund on the western side of the River was the "British Public Park", reminding of Shanghai's days of the past. The symbol of old and new, the Bund is Shanghai's most famous landmark. In the 1930s, the row of buildings was host to the city's financial and commercial centers and the world's greatest banks and trading empires.
Today, it is still home to many of the city's hotels, bars and banks and a lover’s walkway with the city lights twinkling in the River.
The river twists and turns like an almighty Dragon tumbling from Snowbound Mountains of a land called Shangri-La into a tea cup of Shanghais Café.
Shanghai’s futuristic skyline at Sunset, a sophisticated city sets the pace of China’s urbane coast whether enjoying fine wine at night, neon lights or answering global networks with the latest electronic telecom
Yu Garden
My guide Linda, Ying-Ying, her real name took me to the Old City God's Taoist Temple which is enclosed in Yuyuan Gardens which are also popular for shopping.
She showed me boutiques selling local specialties like Silk garments, Jade jewellery, fancy teacups etc. where bargained prices were 30% of those marked. A special MO-MO place was qued up and mo-mos all gone by the time our turn came.(The inner city still has sitting Indian style loos to my discomfort and Linda’s apology).
It was raining heavily the next day but she turned up at dot 10, (Chinese punctuality was remarkable.)
We decided that the Museum was the best choice. It is the centrepiece of People's Square, a harmonious combination of square shapes and circular ones, the Chinese traditional concept which imagines heaven as round and earth as square. The design is also in keeping with Feng Shui principles with perfect symmetry. Inside is the usual Sculpture, mostly Buddhist, Bronze, ceramics, art and calligraphy etc.
AP was busy with his exhibition / trade fair.
It was HUGE at least 10 times the size of Pragati Madaan in Delhi. Fully covered, air conditioned, carpets rolled, eating joints every nook and corner, Machines galore on ground, cranes fixing stuff above, billboards, Colors, people of all types and kinds, an air of ‘emergence’, scant Indians--- lots happening beyond ME----- so in the evening, we were off to------
Nanjing Road
The cabbie dropped us at the square. Neon as far as the eye can see, more than Piccadilly-London, more than Time square-Manhattan, more than imaginable----
A trackless sightseeing tram provided a comfortable tour of the night-transformed pedestrian street.
Today over 600 businesses on Nanjing road offer countless famous brands, and new fashions. KFC, McDonald's, Pizza Hut, and other world-famous food vendors line both sides of the street. Upscale stores include Tiffany, Mont Blanc, and Dunhill. In addition are also, approximately a hundred traditional stores and specialty shops.
Open-air bars, abstract sculptures, and lingering sounds from street musicians are all around. Flashing neon signs illuminate the magnificent buildings and spangle the night skyline.
There is an intangible feel in Shanghai, an urgency, a hope and optimism that hangs in the air all around from the minute you arrive, People are pushing forwards with their feet and in their heads, building a future, a country, moving onwards to some distant unseen goal—
The World Bank says china has lifted 400 million people out of poverty since 1978. China is doing the most extraordinary thing the planet has ever witnessed.
A 5th of humanity is being convulsed every minute, thousands are making millions. ‘Blink’ and you’ll miss plenty in new China. A nation in tumultuous transition
Ordinary Chinese people caught up in an extraordinary moment in time. Millions of people leave their homes in search of jobs in cities. It is the largest migration in History. This army is fuelling the economic boom, putting cheap toys, clothes, flat screen TVs and computers on the shelves of the world’s stores. China has overtaken Britain as the worlds 4th largest economy. It is the workshop of the world. China matters more today than it has ever mattered before. Many take it for granted that it will be the next superpower.
What exactly has it done to the Chinese Psyche and the Chinese soul? The country is turned upside down by development and so is its psychological and moral universe. Our educated guides share in private moments, “this pace is so immense it is rapidly and subtly tearing at the fabric of society even as the new roads and railways knit the country more closely together”.
Veena Kapoor
Sept. 2008
.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
1-China for me-2008
1-China for me - 2008
When AP said he was thinking of going to Shanghai for his trade fair, I jumped to join him.
China had been on my travel list. Although each trip I make, I feel weaker in my physical capacities, yet the wandering lust of the heart wins and I succumb.
For some reason the Embassy decided to give his Visa but denied me for/lack of funds in the Bank. I still haven’t registered the significance or relevance of these accounts in spite of having worked and had bank accounts all my life.
Well the travel agent did some mumbo-jumbo and lo and behold they gave me more days in China than AP.I wondered though if the Chinese Authorities had some thing to do with that, it being ‘one world one dream’ time, what with all the security checks.
I traveled Air India after 40 years; the fare being some rupees less, hard earned money, money received for every minute of my working time, listening and glued to suffering souls.
It wasn’t bad except for Rickety Toilets and welcome elderly air-hostesses to my surprise.
Shanghai Pudong Airport was impressive with silver grey vaulted steel roof and huge glass windows.
AP had asked for hotel pick up. The guy was there with the placard and welcomed us with a smile and heavy Cheeni accent and fragmented English.
Translated the name of the hotel in Chinese and deposited us in the plush cab, the cabbie nodding his head, encased in a see-through Driver’s chamber.
A smooth ride on freeways and we were at the high rise Apartment Business hotel being ushered in by pretty men and women smiling but poor at English again. Had lot of difficulty communicating to find place to eat, other sundry needs like water, soft pillow, method to regulate AC etc. A ‘supermarket’ on the premises was on the brink of closing as we searched for some thing familiar, a packet of biscuits, Orange juice, a ball of steamed momo and a tiny cup of Haagen-Dazs Ice cream, the most expensive.
Any way settled for the night, midnight India, 2.30 AM China time with plans to ride the train to Hangzhou next morning.
The Railway station was some what noisy but well planned, a 21st century architecture looking like a UFO sitting on the ground. Underground metro lines are connected to the trains above. Airport like security checks everywhere. Most travelers seemed Chinese. We met a young student from Croatia going to do Masters in Biomedical engineering at Hanjhou after being at Beijing for his undergrad. Was a relief to say a few words and get a response.
On the Air India plane there was a large contingent of young students. Found out they were all from Andhra Pradesh coming to China to join med School in the univ. of Nanjing. All they needed to do to get in was marks above 60% in 12th and 10-15 lacks as expense. I had never met a Chinese Indian Doctor and this was a surprise. Chinese not just producing machines and other commodities bur also ‘us’.
The D-Train (for Dynamic) left punctually, comfortable as in Europe, edibles snacks, chips and crackers going around as in India and polished people on laptops as any where else in the globe.
I was hoping to see the country side and fields, remember Pearl S Buck’s ‘Good earth’, story of a simple farmer’s family, instead there were reasonably developed towns and plenty of green. Within 2 hours we had reached.
Lo and behold, AP forgot his Hotel reservation slip in Shanghai although we knew we were to go to Dragon Hotel. Amazing, they all said there was no Dragon hotel by nodding their heads. Multiple phone calls to India, and traced the hotels tel. and got the address. Finally met a gentleman who wrote it for us in Chinese for the cab guy. In no time found and reached the beautiful Dragon Hotel.
Relieved at finding better English speaking girls and were able to organize room, water, a delicious Shrimp lunch and plans for the remaining and the next day.
Hangzhou is one of the 7 ancient capitals of China. Heaven is above but below is it.
West Lake is the symbol of Hangzhou. Marco Polo called it the most enchanting. Hills embrace the Lake on three sides; the city is to the east.
In the evening as suggested we went to Hubin Road which has an upscale international Mall on one side, the architecture and Stores a blend of East and West and the lake along the other.
A large Fountain displays a Laser lit show every 30mts. spraying water with great momentum. It changes position high and around and dances with the music of China as at Sentosa island Singapore. The lake view reflected double pagodas with Dragon fronts. Took a boat cruise surrounded by city lights across the peaceful gentle waves.
The same cruise was part of our day trip the next day, accompanied, thank heavens by our English speaking guide Elaine and a family from Amsterdam and a young man from Paris. Regarded by many as China's most beautiful lake, reputedly was also considered ancient China's most beautiful woman. The subject of many of the country's most famous literary and artistic works, and the inspiration for countless more, it had been working its charms on those who gazed upon it for centuries.
Three isles were inserted in the lake, triple causeways in the middle and Six Harmonies Pagoda on one side. This 8 storied Pagoda was built by King of Wuyu in year 970.
The pagoda was named to signify the harmony of heaven, earth, and the four directions east, west, south and north. During the night lanterns were lit on the pagoda so that ships and boats on the Qiantang River could use it as a navigation tower.
We then went to Lingyin temple, one of the largest and wealthiest temples in China, commonly translated as "Temple of the Soul's Retreat”. It was originally founded in 326 AD, but has been rebuilt again and again. The hillside to the south of the temple is a site of old Buddhist caves and rock carvings as at ‘Ellora of Aurangabad’.
The principle Buddha here is Maitreya and the Laughing Buddha. The main hall is called the Mahavira Hall and has a huge golden image of Shakyamuni. A group of old ladies were waiting outside for a special service to honor Shakyamuni, the historic Buddha whose birthday it was, but there were no signs that this day was any different than another.
Chinese Lunch, confusing to us after delicious Indian Chinese food we are used to, was followed by a visit
to a tea plantation, misty valley spread across thousand of acres. The farmers here are no more poor
but own large villas and lands, producing high quality Longjin tea, No.1green tea in china. We sipped Teas
traditionally brewed, served and familiarized with Tea culture, history and the medicinal Virtues. The cost in
Grams varied depending on time of the year it had been picked, the best being the Emperor or ‘Dragon
well tea’ in Spring time. Tea here focuses on taste, choosing a silent place, it calms the Mind, stirs you up
and sublimes the inner spirit into an exalted realm.
Also the city of Silk, the weaving tradition here goes back over 3000 years, enticing the traveler since yonder years along the famous Silk route from Rome, the Mediterranean and Istambul. The Silkworm Cocoon here was much fatter than one in Kashmir I had seen. They produced 100% silk bed sheets, soft blankets and other garments materials.
After our cuppa and rest to my grudging feet, we set off again to Wushan road which had a night Bazaar with all kinds of curios, pottery, calligraphic etc. and Bargaining Galore!
Most interesting was the gathering we saw in the square. I suddenly heard music with tens of mostly elderly Chinese people dancing. Even though some of them didn't know what they were doing, it was a delightful scene and I felt party to a wonderful evening, my feet no more begrudging but moving to the beat. The selection of beautiful music ranged from gentle and soft to more vibrant and uplifting. I later discovered it was a form of Tao dancing and very commonly done at the rising and setting of the Sun as our yoga and Walk groups in the Parks here.
Hangzhou is in the rich Zhejiang & Jiangsu provinces which came under the special economic Zones like the city Shenzhen. They implemented large scale infra structure projects, multiple express ways, power generation, airports and other cultural facilities. Ecology and water control of farming lands helped poverty alleviation of the farmer.
The principle goals of development were to achieve a new high plateau for the economy at a remarkably higher level, improve democracy and the legal system and all round social progress.
So far they have more than 300,000 private enterprises and nearly 7 million self employed business people. Total industrial out put values gross sales account for over one third of china’s top five hundred private industries.
The Lee-ding University is the most comprehensive, with 76 disciplines, a student population of 576 thousand and 22 thousand post graduates. Our friend from Croatia must have registered by now.
Since New China was founded in 1949, the policy requirement was of opening up to the out side world. The people have worked diligently resulting in remarkable development. It is evident that this has been the spirit of the local people constantly strivings to become better, stronger, despite difficulties and risks.
Veena Kapoor
Sept. 2008
When AP said he was thinking of going to Shanghai for his trade fair, I jumped to join him.
China had been on my travel list. Although each trip I make, I feel weaker in my physical capacities, yet the wandering lust of the heart wins and I succumb.
For some reason the Embassy decided to give his Visa but denied me for/lack of funds in the Bank. I still haven’t registered the significance or relevance of these accounts in spite of having worked and had bank accounts all my life.
Well the travel agent did some mumbo-jumbo and lo and behold they gave me more days in China than AP.I wondered though if the Chinese Authorities had some thing to do with that, it being ‘one world one dream’ time, what with all the security checks.
I traveled Air India after 40 years; the fare being some rupees less, hard earned money, money received for every minute of my working time, listening and glued to suffering souls.
It wasn’t bad except for Rickety Toilets and welcome elderly air-hostesses to my surprise.
Shanghai Pudong Airport was impressive with silver grey vaulted steel roof and huge glass windows.
AP had asked for hotel pick up. The guy was there with the placard and welcomed us with a smile and heavy Cheeni accent and fragmented English.
Translated the name of the hotel in Chinese and deposited us in the plush cab, the cabbie nodding his head, encased in a see-through Driver’s chamber.
A smooth ride on freeways and we were at the high rise Apartment Business hotel being ushered in by pretty men and women smiling but poor at English again. Had lot of difficulty communicating to find place to eat, other sundry needs like water, soft pillow, method to regulate AC etc. A ‘supermarket’ on the premises was on the brink of closing as we searched for some thing familiar, a packet of biscuits, Orange juice, a ball of steamed momo and a tiny cup of Haagen-Dazs Ice cream, the most expensive.
Any way settled for the night, midnight India, 2.30 AM China time with plans to ride the train to Hangzhou next morning.
The Railway station was some what noisy but well planned, a 21st century architecture looking like a UFO sitting on the ground. Underground metro lines are connected to the trains above. Airport like security checks everywhere. Most travelers seemed Chinese. We met a young student from Croatia going to do Masters in Biomedical engineering at Hanjhou after being at Beijing for his undergrad. Was a relief to say a few words and get a response.
On the Air India plane there was a large contingent of young students. Found out they were all from Andhra Pradesh coming to China to join med School in the univ. of Nanjing. All they needed to do to get in was marks above 60% in 12th and 10-15 lacks as expense. I had never met a Chinese Indian Doctor and this was a surprise. Chinese not just producing machines and other commodities bur also ‘us’.
The D-Train (for Dynamic) left punctually, comfortable as in Europe, edibles snacks, chips and crackers going around as in India and polished people on laptops as any where else in the globe.
I was hoping to see the country side and fields, remember Pearl S Buck’s ‘Good earth’, story of a simple farmer’s family, instead there were reasonably developed towns and plenty of green. Within 2 hours we had reached.
Lo and behold, AP forgot his Hotel reservation slip in Shanghai although we knew we were to go to Dragon Hotel. Amazing, they all said there was no Dragon hotel by nodding their heads. Multiple phone calls to India, and traced the hotels tel. and got the address. Finally met a gentleman who wrote it for us in Chinese for the cab guy. In no time found and reached the beautiful Dragon Hotel.
Relieved at finding better English speaking girls and were able to organize room, water, a delicious Shrimp lunch and plans for the remaining and the next day.
Hangzhou is one of the 7 ancient capitals of China. Heaven is above but below is it.
West Lake is the symbol of Hangzhou. Marco Polo called it the most enchanting. Hills embrace the Lake on three sides; the city is to the east.
In the evening as suggested we went to Hubin Road which has an upscale international Mall on one side, the architecture and Stores a blend of East and West and the lake along the other.
A large Fountain displays a Laser lit show every 30mts. spraying water with great momentum. It changes position high and around and dances with the music of China as at Sentosa island Singapore. The lake view reflected double pagodas with Dragon fronts. Took a boat cruise surrounded by city lights across the peaceful gentle waves.
The same cruise was part of our day trip the next day, accompanied, thank heavens by our English speaking guide Elaine and a family from Amsterdam and a young man from Paris. Regarded by many as China's most beautiful lake, reputedly was also considered ancient China's most beautiful woman. The subject of many of the country's most famous literary and artistic works, and the inspiration for countless more, it had been working its charms on those who gazed upon it for centuries.
Three isles were inserted in the lake, triple causeways in the middle and Six Harmonies Pagoda on one side. This 8 storied Pagoda was built by King of Wuyu in year 970.
The pagoda was named to signify the harmony of heaven, earth, and the four directions east, west, south and north. During the night lanterns were lit on the pagoda so that ships and boats on the Qiantang River could use it as a navigation tower.
We then went to Lingyin temple, one of the largest and wealthiest temples in China, commonly translated as "Temple of the Soul's Retreat”. It was originally founded in 326 AD, but has been rebuilt again and again. The hillside to the south of the temple is a site of old Buddhist caves and rock carvings as at ‘Ellora of Aurangabad’.
The principle Buddha here is Maitreya and the Laughing Buddha. The main hall is called the Mahavira Hall and has a huge golden image of Shakyamuni. A group of old ladies were waiting outside for a special service to honor Shakyamuni, the historic Buddha whose birthday it was, but there were no signs that this day was any different than another.
Chinese Lunch, confusing to us after delicious Indian Chinese food we are used to, was followed by a visit
to a tea plantation, misty valley spread across thousand of acres. The farmers here are no more poor
but own large villas and lands, producing high quality Longjin tea, No.1green tea in china. We sipped Teas
traditionally brewed, served and familiarized with Tea culture, history and the medicinal Virtues. The cost in
Grams varied depending on time of the year it had been picked, the best being the Emperor or ‘Dragon
well tea’ in Spring time. Tea here focuses on taste, choosing a silent place, it calms the Mind, stirs you up
and sublimes the inner spirit into an exalted realm.
Also the city of Silk, the weaving tradition here goes back over 3000 years, enticing the traveler since yonder years along the famous Silk route from Rome, the Mediterranean and Istambul. The Silkworm Cocoon here was much fatter than one in Kashmir I had seen. They produced 100% silk bed sheets, soft blankets and other garments materials.
After our cuppa and rest to my grudging feet, we set off again to Wushan road which had a night Bazaar with all kinds of curios, pottery, calligraphic etc. and Bargaining Galore!
Most interesting was the gathering we saw in the square. I suddenly heard music with tens of mostly elderly Chinese people dancing. Even though some of them didn't know what they were doing, it was a delightful scene and I felt party to a wonderful evening, my feet no more begrudging but moving to the beat. The selection of beautiful music ranged from gentle and soft to more vibrant and uplifting. I later discovered it was a form of Tao dancing and very commonly done at the rising and setting of the Sun as our yoga and Walk groups in the Parks here.
Hangzhou is in the rich Zhejiang & Jiangsu provinces which came under the special economic Zones like the city Shenzhen. They implemented large scale infra structure projects, multiple express ways, power generation, airports and other cultural facilities. Ecology and water control of farming lands helped poverty alleviation of the farmer.
The principle goals of development were to achieve a new high plateau for the economy at a remarkably higher level, improve democracy and the legal system and all round social progress.
So far they have more than 300,000 private enterprises and nearly 7 million self employed business people. Total industrial out put values gross sales account for over one third of china’s top five hundred private industries.
The Lee-ding University is the most comprehensive, with 76 disciplines, a student population of 576 thousand and 22 thousand post graduates. Our friend from Croatia must have registered by now.
Since New China was founded in 1949, the policy requirement was of opening up to the out side world. The people have worked diligently resulting in remarkable development. It is evident that this has been the spirit of the local people constantly strivings to become better, stronger, despite difficulties and risks.
Veena Kapoor
Sept. 2008
Sunday, June 6, 2010
7. Graduating and Growing
7. Graduating and Growing
The decision of going to Medical College was fathers’ too, as was then the chosen, most suitable considered profession. I had feebly expressed my desire to do English / literature but was of no avail.
It happened in 3 parts;
Hindu, Delhi Univ. for 1 year for premed...
Govt. med college, Patiala for 2 yrs for 1st professional MBBS.
Maulana Azad Med. College, Delhi for 4 yrs for 2nd and final proff, internship and House jobs.
The three parts also consisted of;
The pursuit of serious academic curriculum, the exposure to the ‘male gender onslaught’ and the formation of ‘new significant relationships’.
Hindu college
Delhi transport Bus no. 9 and 21 from Statesman on Barakhamba Rd to the University, beyond Civil lines, took one to another world after QMSchool. St. Stephens stood on the Rt. and Hindu on the left of the Road. ‘They’ were all Boys and ‘we’ a co-ed so they aligned with Miranda House the hub for the elite ‘so to say’.
Bus journey was crowded and we girls started getting our beginning share of body pushes and pinches.
College was wonderful. The Professors were authority on their subjects of Physics, Chemistry and Biology.
My favorite of course was Mr. Desai of English and Literature. Hinduites would go to the ‘Shakespeare theatre’ enacted across the Road. We also were the top Cricket teams and wooed and cheered our heroes on the field.
Vithal Rao and I became the Debating team of our college in Univ. contests.
Vithal talked too much, even without the debate, nevertheless became my first ‘boy-friend’. The friendship was just beginning when Hindu got over and we moved on. He would some times write to me but my conservative warden at Patiala censored our letters and promptly stopped all mail from him. Any how I never saw Vithal after leaving Hindu, not that I even thought I needed to.
I guess my non-interest in Sciences showed up as I did not get Admission to a med School in Delhi.
Patiala the ‘Sikh city’
I got it at Patiala which was Punjabi University. Babuji didn’t like it but had to reconcile.
I still can feel his hand on my right shoulder standing at the Gate of the Hostel at Patiala after all formalities had been taken care of. He didn’t say much but patted me gently as if to instill that energy that it takes to now grow up, away from Home, away from Delhi, so one day I would be that wonderful, strong and self dependent woman, doctor, citizen, and human-being.
They ragged us Delhites no end. Some of the senior Boys were expelled from the Hostel by Dr. Ramjidass only to rent a fancy flat to show off to the girls. But that didn’t last long. Soon the hospitality, sincerity and affection of the Gurumukhi group rubbed off us and the change felt warm and welcome.
After having studied the Biology of the Cockroach, the Frog, the Rat, the Dog, we were ready for ‘The Man’, his Anatomy and Physiology.
Med students that we now were, entered the Dissection Hall to witness bodies lying in the Trendelenburg position on marble slabs. Anju fainted on day one and quit the idea of education to be a doctor right away.
Sandoz, the attendant was like the bodies we were to dissect, dark and dry except for his shiny pearly teeth, scary if one saw him in the dark corridor.
So, the wonders of the body kept opening for us by our Scalpel and Forceps and how it functioned was told by Proff ID Singh in manners so Dramatic that we would not forget.
‘B’ was my room-mate who gradually began to share my bed feigning home-sickness. Her hugs became too physical for my comfort and I shared it with a senior who got my room changed. Retrospectively I think that she actually might have been a beginning ‘sexual identity syndrome’.
Sheela and I were a happy pair always laughing and we formed a quad with Cheenta and Hardayal to have occasional Coffee at the Green or a walk down the Mall lined by Flaming Gulmohurs.
Dr. Ramjidass in spite of a serious countenance, believed in fun and from Patiala we would ride the Bus, whole hoards of us, girls and Boys for picnics to Pinjore and Chandigarh. I got a taste of true Punjabi singing and Bhangra then.
Just as I began to speak in Punjabi to Jasjit and Satinder, and got used to the special Rail Coach that brought us home to Delhi for wk-ends, Sheela and I got migration to MAMC.
Maulana Azad Medical College
Elections were going on. The atmosphere was conducive to induct new ‘Birds’, not only to Pathology, Pharmacology and Biochemistry but also the ‘existing group’.
I was in the batch with Asha, Pasha, Usha, Sheela, but in time it all got split into Co-ed.
We were a happy bunch of 8-10 spending hours in the College Canteen as most Collegiates do, the Dhaba on Mirdard Rd. located ideally between the Girls’ Hostel and main Academic Blocks. Cannaught Place wasn’t far with, Mikado, York’s, Volga’s, Odeon, Plaza, Rivoli---if Money was available.
Besides that, life was also a serious affair. The multiple lectures, long hours of learning, first in the lab. then the room, then the Hospital. From the inanimate to the animate, the wards, medical, Surgical, Gyne, Obstetric, Ortho, Neuro, others--- the rounds, morning, evenings, nights----Pathology infested humans on the Beds, on Floors, on Benches--- The Chaos of the Emergency Room-----learning to heal, learning to experience new life being born, learning to deal with life ebbing away.
During all of this, something else much deeper was happening at a personal level.
My brother came 14 years after me. His little ‘Penis’ was a thing of joy to mother and amazement to us initially but then an un-interesting small blob of flesh which stood up for the act of micturition. It did have its way and often streamed in the wrong direction again to the amusement of my mother and gigglishly, we three sisters would join in the merriment.
The sense of ‘merriment’ dissolved and got replaced by ‘horror’ when one day, X, a friend of the family offered to show off. He unzipped and pulled out a big fat ugly ‘something’ throbbing with its own excitement, me not knowing what ‘I’ had done besides being a spectator of this ‘spectacle’. He laughed with mirth and pushed it inside his ‘fruit of loom’.
It was much later, I realized, the ‘horror’ as an integral part of ‘Male Anatomy, Physiology and Psychology’.
Dr. ‘C’ while performing a Physical exam on me to diagnose the cause of fever, began to palpate the chest rather thoroughly, looking into my eyes said, I had beautiful eyes.
The Swim Coach decided I was ready for the deep end. He held me by the pigtail, dragging me and then cycled holding me from the back.
A man followed me on a busy street, dropped a note in my hand and drove off. My heart ready to burst open,
I rushed to the loo, opened the pink slip and read a funny love poem with shaking hands, tore it to bits and flushed it down the hole, Indian style thank God.
Proff ‘N’ after a demonstration of teaching us the location of the Liver, its edge beneath the rib cage, put his hand over mine brushing against my sleeveless blouse and asked if I could feel it, Liver I presumed.
And it went on----- prowling eyes on one’s ‘Self’, cars following one on a lonely road, windowpane going down, a short horn , and then moving ahead------
These were ‘assaults’, never understood, never dared to discuss, question-----
There grew a deep fear, hatred, uncertainty-----
In every day life ‘this horror’ for me was often dealt with by ‘others’ in jokes, hushed whispers, whilst quiet rebellions of a kind simmered inside.
At the same time one met and studied with Boys, boys who seemed of a nicer breed one hoped, from another planet. One felt good with those one chose as friends----.
Study was over, internship began followed by house jobs bringing responsibility. Responsibility was of ‘Lives’, of ‘Selves’, of making future choices.
Now was only a beginning and not the end.
Veena
The decision of going to Medical College was fathers’ too, as was then the chosen, most suitable considered profession. I had feebly expressed my desire to do English / literature but was of no avail.
It happened in 3 parts;
Hindu, Delhi Univ. for 1 year for premed...
Govt. med college, Patiala for 2 yrs for 1st professional MBBS.
Maulana Azad Med. College, Delhi for 4 yrs for 2nd and final proff, internship and House jobs.
The three parts also consisted of;
The pursuit of serious academic curriculum, the exposure to the ‘male gender onslaught’ and the formation of ‘new significant relationships’.
Hindu college
Delhi transport Bus no. 9 and 21 from Statesman on Barakhamba Rd to the University, beyond Civil lines, took one to another world after QMSchool. St. Stephens stood on the Rt. and Hindu on the left of the Road. ‘They’ were all Boys and ‘we’ a co-ed so they aligned with Miranda House the hub for the elite ‘so to say’.
Bus journey was crowded and we girls started getting our beginning share of body pushes and pinches.
College was wonderful. The Professors were authority on their subjects of Physics, Chemistry and Biology.
My favorite of course was Mr. Desai of English and Literature. Hinduites would go to the ‘Shakespeare theatre’ enacted across the Road. We also were the top Cricket teams and wooed and cheered our heroes on the field.
Vithal Rao and I became the Debating team of our college in Univ. contests.
Vithal talked too much, even without the debate, nevertheless became my first ‘boy-friend’. The friendship was just beginning when Hindu got over and we moved on. He would some times write to me but my conservative warden at Patiala censored our letters and promptly stopped all mail from him. Any how I never saw Vithal after leaving Hindu, not that I even thought I needed to.
I guess my non-interest in Sciences showed up as I did not get Admission to a med School in Delhi.
Patiala the ‘Sikh city’
I got it at Patiala which was Punjabi University. Babuji didn’t like it but had to reconcile.
I still can feel his hand on my right shoulder standing at the Gate of the Hostel at Patiala after all formalities had been taken care of. He didn’t say much but patted me gently as if to instill that energy that it takes to now grow up, away from Home, away from Delhi, so one day I would be that wonderful, strong and self dependent woman, doctor, citizen, and human-being.
They ragged us Delhites no end. Some of the senior Boys were expelled from the Hostel by Dr. Ramjidass only to rent a fancy flat to show off to the girls. But that didn’t last long. Soon the hospitality, sincerity and affection of the Gurumukhi group rubbed off us and the change felt warm and welcome.
After having studied the Biology of the Cockroach, the Frog, the Rat, the Dog, we were ready for ‘The Man’, his Anatomy and Physiology.
Med students that we now were, entered the Dissection Hall to witness bodies lying in the Trendelenburg position on marble slabs. Anju fainted on day one and quit the idea of education to be a doctor right away.
Sandoz, the attendant was like the bodies we were to dissect, dark and dry except for his shiny pearly teeth, scary if one saw him in the dark corridor.
So, the wonders of the body kept opening for us by our Scalpel and Forceps and how it functioned was told by Proff ID Singh in manners so Dramatic that we would not forget.
‘B’ was my room-mate who gradually began to share my bed feigning home-sickness. Her hugs became too physical for my comfort and I shared it with a senior who got my room changed. Retrospectively I think that she actually might have been a beginning ‘sexual identity syndrome’.
Sheela and I were a happy pair always laughing and we formed a quad with Cheenta and Hardayal to have occasional Coffee at the Green or a walk down the Mall lined by Flaming Gulmohurs.
Dr. Ramjidass in spite of a serious countenance, believed in fun and from Patiala we would ride the Bus, whole hoards of us, girls and Boys for picnics to Pinjore and Chandigarh. I got a taste of true Punjabi singing and Bhangra then.
Just as I began to speak in Punjabi to Jasjit and Satinder, and got used to the special Rail Coach that brought us home to Delhi for wk-ends, Sheela and I got migration to MAMC.
Maulana Azad Medical College
Elections were going on. The atmosphere was conducive to induct new ‘Birds’, not only to Pathology, Pharmacology and Biochemistry but also the ‘existing group’.
I was in the batch with Asha, Pasha, Usha, Sheela, but in time it all got split into Co-ed.
We were a happy bunch of 8-10 spending hours in the College Canteen as most Collegiates do, the Dhaba on Mirdard Rd. located ideally between the Girls’ Hostel and main Academic Blocks. Cannaught Place wasn’t far with, Mikado, York’s, Volga’s, Odeon, Plaza, Rivoli---if Money was available.
Besides that, life was also a serious affair. The multiple lectures, long hours of learning, first in the lab. then the room, then the Hospital. From the inanimate to the animate, the wards, medical, Surgical, Gyne, Obstetric, Ortho, Neuro, others--- the rounds, morning, evenings, nights----Pathology infested humans on the Beds, on Floors, on Benches--- The Chaos of the Emergency Room-----learning to heal, learning to experience new life being born, learning to deal with life ebbing away.
During all of this, something else much deeper was happening at a personal level.
My brother came 14 years after me. His little ‘Penis’ was a thing of joy to mother and amazement to us initially but then an un-interesting small blob of flesh which stood up for the act of micturition. It did have its way and often streamed in the wrong direction again to the amusement of my mother and gigglishly, we three sisters would join in the merriment.
The sense of ‘merriment’ dissolved and got replaced by ‘horror’ when one day, X, a friend of the family offered to show off. He unzipped and pulled out a big fat ugly ‘something’ throbbing with its own excitement, me not knowing what ‘I’ had done besides being a spectator of this ‘spectacle’. He laughed with mirth and pushed it inside his ‘fruit of loom’.
It was much later, I realized, the ‘horror’ as an integral part of ‘Male Anatomy, Physiology and Psychology’.
Dr. ‘C’ while performing a Physical exam on me to diagnose the cause of fever, began to palpate the chest rather thoroughly, looking into my eyes said, I had beautiful eyes.
The Swim Coach decided I was ready for the deep end. He held me by the pigtail, dragging me and then cycled holding me from the back.
A man followed me on a busy street, dropped a note in my hand and drove off. My heart ready to burst open,
I rushed to the loo, opened the pink slip and read a funny love poem with shaking hands, tore it to bits and flushed it down the hole, Indian style thank God.
Proff ‘N’ after a demonstration of teaching us the location of the Liver, its edge beneath the rib cage, put his hand over mine brushing against my sleeveless blouse and asked if I could feel it, Liver I presumed.
And it went on----- prowling eyes on one’s ‘Self’, cars following one on a lonely road, windowpane going down, a short horn , and then moving ahead------
These were ‘assaults’, never understood, never dared to discuss, question-----
There grew a deep fear, hatred, uncertainty-----
In every day life ‘this horror’ for me was often dealt with by ‘others’ in jokes, hushed whispers, whilst quiet rebellions of a kind simmered inside.
At the same time one met and studied with Boys, boys who seemed of a nicer breed one hoped, from another planet. One felt good with those one chose as friends----.
Study was over, internship began followed by house jobs bringing responsibility. Responsibility was of ‘Lives’, of ‘Selves’, of making future choices.
Now was only a beginning and not the end.
Veena
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