Tuesday, June 15, 2010

1-China for me-2008

1-China for me - 2008
When AP said he was thinking of going to Shanghai for his trade fair, I jumped to join him.
China had been on my travel list. Although each trip I make, I feel weaker in my physical capacities, yet the wandering lust of the heart wins and I succumb.

For some reason the Embassy decided to give his Visa but denied me for/lack of funds in the Bank. I still haven’t registered the significance or relevance of these accounts in spite of having worked and had bank accounts all my life.
Well the travel agent did some mumbo-jumbo and lo and behold they gave me more days in China than AP.I wondered though if the Chinese Authorities had some thing to do with that, it being ‘one world one dream’ time, what with all the security checks.

I traveled Air India after 40 years; the fare being some rupees less, hard earned money, money received for every minute of my working time, listening and glued to suffering souls.
It wasn’t bad except for Rickety Toilets and welcome elderly air-hostesses to my surprise.

Shanghai Pudong Airport was impressive with silver grey vaulted steel roof and huge glass windows.

AP had asked for hotel pick up. The guy was there with the placard and welcomed us with a smile and heavy Cheeni accent and fragmented English.
Translated the name of the hotel in Chinese and deposited us in the plush cab, the cabbie nodding his head, encased in a see-through Driver’s chamber.

A smooth ride on freeways and we were at the high rise Apartment Business hotel being ushered in by pretty men and women smiling but poor at English again. Had lot of difficulty communicating to find place to eat, other sundry needs like water, soft pillow, method to regulate AC etc. A ‘supermarket’ on the premises was on the brink of closing as we searched for some thing familiar, a packet of biscuits, Orange juice, a ball of steamed momo and a tiny cup of Haagen-Dazs Ice cream, the most expensive.
Any way settled for the night, midnight India, 2.30 AM China time with plans to ride the train to Hangzhou next morning.

The Railway station was some what noisy but well planned, a 21st century architecture looking like a UFO sitting on the ground. Underground metro lines are connected to the trains above. Airport like security checks everywhere. Most travelers seemed Chinese. We met a young student from Croatia going to do Masters in Biomedical engineering at Hanjhou after being at Beijing for his undergrad. Was a relief to say a few words and get a response.

On the Air India plane there was a large contingent of young students. Found out they were all from Andhra Pradesh coming to China to join med School in the univ. of Nanjing. All they needed to do to get in was marks above 60% in 12th and 10-15 lacks as expense. I had never met a Chinese Indian Doctor and this was a surprise. Chinese not just producing machines and other commodities bur also ‘us’.

The D-Train (for Dynamic) left punctually, comfortable as in Europe, edibles snacks, chips and crackers going around as in India and polished people on laptops as any where else in the globe.

I was hoping to see the country side and fields, remember Pearl S Buck’s ‘Good earth’, story of a simple farmer’s family, instead there were reasonably developed towns and plenty of green. Within 2 hours we had reached.
Lo and behold, AP forgot his Hotel reservation slip in Shanghai although we knew we were to go to Dragon Hotel. Amazing, they all said there was no Dragon hotel by nodding their heads. Multiple phone calls to India, and traced the hotels tel. and got the address. Finally met a gentleman who wrote it for us in Chinese for the cab guy. In no time found and reached the beautiful Dragon Hotel.
Relieved at finding better English speaking girls and were able to organize room, water, a delicious Shrimp lunch and plans for the remaining and the next day.
Hangzhou is one of the 7 ancient capitals of China. Heaven is above but below is it.
West Lake is the symbol of Hangzhou. Marco Polo called it the most enchanting. Hills embrace the Lake on three sides; the city is to the east.
In the evening as suggested we went to Hubin Road which has an upscale international Mall on one side, the architecture and Stores a blend of East and West and the lake along the other.
A large Fountain displays a Laser lit show every 30mts. spraying water with great momentum. It changes position high and around and dances with the music of China as at Sentosa island Singapore. The lake view reflected double pagodas with Dragon fronts. Took a boat cruise surrounded by city lights across the peaceful gentle waves.
The same cruise was part of our day trip the next day, accompanied, thank heavens by our English speaking guide Elaine and a family from Amsterdam and a young man from Paris. Regarded by many as China's most beautiful lake, reputedly was also considered ancient China's most beautiful woman. The subject of many of the country's most famous literary and artistic works, and the inspiration for countless more, it had been working its charms on those who gazed upon it for centuries.
Three isles were inserted in the lake, triple causeways in the middle and Six Harmonies Pagoda on one side. This 8 storied Pagoda was built by King of Wuyu in year 970.
The pagoda was named to signify the harmony of heaven, earth, and the four directions east, west, south and north. During the night lanterns were lit on the pagoda so that ships and boats on the Qiantang River could use it as a navigation tower.
We then went to Lingyin temple, one of the largest and wealthiest temples in China, commonly translated as "Temple of the Soul's Retreat”. It was originally founded in 326 AD, but has been rebuilt again and again. The hillside to the south of the temple is a site of old Buddhist caves and rock carvings as at ‘Ellora of Aurangabad’.
The principle Buddha here is Maitreya and the Laughing Buddha. The main hall is called the Mahavira Hall and has a huge golden image of Shakyamuni. A group of old ladies were waiting outside for a special service to honor Shakyamuni, the historic Buddha whose birthday it was, but there were no signs that this day was any different than another.

Chinese Lunch, confusing to us after delicious Indian Chinese food we are used to, was followed by a visit
to a tea plantation, misty valley spread across thousand of acres. The farmers here are no more poor
but own large villas and lands, producing high quality Longjin tea, No.1green tea in china. We sipped Teas
traditionally brewed, served and familiarized with Tea culture, history and the medicinal Virtues. The cost in
Grams varied depending on time of the year it had been picked, the best being the Emperor or ‘Dragon
well tea’ in Spring time. Tea here focuses on taste, choosing a silent place, it calms the Mind, stirs you up
and sublimes the inner spirit into an exalted realm.
Also the city of Silk, the weaving tradition here goes back over 3000 years, enticing the traveler since yonder years along the famous Silk route from Rome, the Mediterranean and Istambul. The Silkworm Cocoon here was much fatter than one in Kashmir I had seen. They produced 100% silk bed sheets, soft blankets and other garments materials.
After our cuppa and rest to my grudging feet, we set off again to Wushan road which had a night Bazaar with all kinds of curios, pottery, calligraphic etc. and Bargaining Galore!
Most interesting was the gathering we saw in the square. I suddenly heard music with tens of mostly elderly Chinese people dancing. Even though some of them didn't know what they were doing, it was a delightful scene and I felt party to a wonderful evening, my feet no more begrudging but moving to the beat. The selection of beautiful music ranged from gentle and soft to more vibrant and uplifting. I later discovered it was a form of Tao dancing and very commonly done at the rising and setting of the Sun as our yoga and Walk groups in the Parks here.
Hangzhou is in the rich Zhejiang & Jiangsu provinces which came under the special economic Zones like the city Shenzhen. They implemented large scale infra structure projects, multiple express ways, power generation, airports and other cultural facilities. Ecology and water control of farming lands helped poverty alleviation of the farmer.
The principle goals of development were to achieve a new high plateau for the economy at a remarkably higher level, improve democracy and the legal system and all round social progress.
So far they have more than 300,000 private enterprises and nearly 7 million self employed business people. Total industrial out put values gross sales account for over one third of china’s top five hundred private industries.
The Lee-ding University is the most comprehensive, with 76 disciplines, a student population of 576 thousand and 22 thousand post graduates. Our friend from Croatia must have registered by now.
Since New China was founded in 1949, the policy requirement was of opening up to the out side world. The people have worked diligently resulting in remarkable development. It is evident that this has been the spirit of the local people constantly strivings to become better, stronger, despite difficulties and risks.
Veena Kapoor
Sept. 2008

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